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In addition to their exterior beauty, watches are also an incredible feat of engineering and craftsmanship. Many complicated parts must all work in tandem in order to not only tell time, but perform the myriad other functions that many of today's watches perform. This section contains an overview of the major parts of a watch, as well as an explanation of how watches operate.
Watch Parts
Watches contain many parts that work together to tell time, as well as perform other useful functions. These could include a chronograph, altimeter, alarm, day/date calendar, phases of the moon, slide-rule, etc. Here are descriptions of the major internal and external parts and their functions. For more detailed explanations, you can also visit our Watch Glossary.
External Watch Parts
Crystal
The cover over the watch face is called the crystal. There are three types of crystals commonly found in watches: Acrylic crystal is an inexpensive plastic that allows shallow scratches to be buffed out. Mineral crystal is composed of several elements that are heat-treated to create an unusual hardness that aids in resisting scratches. Sapphire crystal is the most expensive and durable, approximately three times harder than mineral crystals and 20 times harder than acrylic crystals. A non-reflective coating on some sport styles prevents glare.
Hands
A watch's hands are the pointing device anchored at the center and circling around the dial indicating hours, minutes, seconds and any other special features of the watch. There are many different types of hands:
- Alpha: A hand that is slightly tapered
- Baton: A narrow hand sometimes referred to as a 'stick hand'
- Dauphine: A wide, tapered hand with a facet at the center running the length of the hand
- Skeleton: Cutout hands showing only the frame
- Luminous: Hand made of skeleton form with the opening filled with a luminous material
Bezel
The surface ring on a watch that surrounds and holds the crystal in place is called the bezel. A rotating ratchet bezel moves in some sport watches as part of the timing device. If rotating bezels are bi-directional (able to move clockwise or counter clockwise), they can assist in calculations for elapsed times.
Crown
The nodule extending from the watchcase that is used to set the time, date, etc. is called the crown. Most pull out to set the time. Many water-resistant watches have crowns that screw down for a better water-tight seal.
Dial
The watch face that contains the numerals, indices or surface design is called the dial. While these parts are usually applied, some may be printed on. Sub-dials are smaller dials set into the main face of the watch. These can be used for added functions, such as elapsed times and dates.
Case (or Watchcase)
The watchcase is the metal housing that contains the internal parts of a watch. Stainless steel is the most typical metal used, but titanium, gold, silver and platinum are also used. Less expensive watches are usually made of brass that has been plated with gold or silver.
Bracelet
A bracelet is the flexible metal band consisting of assembled links, usually in the same style as the watch case. Detachable links are used to change the length of the bracelet. Bracelets can be made of stainless steel, sterling silver, gold, or a combination.
Strap
A strap is simply a watchband made of leather, plastic or fabric.
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Internal Watch Parts
A watch's main timekeeping mechanism is called its movement. Today's watch movements fall into two categories: Automatic mechanical or quartz. Automatic mechanical movements mark the passage of time by a series of gear mechanisms. Most automatic movements are wound by the normal, everyday movement of your wrist, which charges the watch's winding reserve. Quartz movements are powered by a battery and do not stop working once removed from your wrist.
Balance Wheel
The regulating organ of a watch with a mechanical movement that vibrates on a spiral hairspring is called the balance wheel. Lengthening or shortening the balance spring makes the balance wheel go faster or slower to advance or retard the watch. The travel of the balance wheel from one extreme to the other and back again is called oscillation.
Gear Train
This series of small gears in both quartz and mechanical movement watches is responsible for transmitting the power from the battery (in a quartz watch) or spring (in a mechanical watch) to the escapement, which distributes the impulses that mark the time.
Escapement
This part of the watch restricts the electrical or mechanical impulses of the gear train, metering out the passage of time into equal, regular parts.
Motion Work
The motion work is a series of parts inside a watch that receive power from the escapement and gear train, which distribute and generate the watch's power. The motion work is responsible for actually turning the watch's hands.
Mainspring
The mainspring is the energy source responsible for powering the watch movement (as opposed to a battery in a watch with a quartz crystal movement). The spring is wound, either manually (using the winding stem) or automatically, by the motion of the wearer's wrist. Potential energy is stored in the coiled spring, then released to the gear train which transmits the power to the escapement and motion work, which turns the hands on the watch dial.
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How a Watch Works
Watches essentially tell time by the integration of three main components: an energy source, a time regulating mechanism and a display. The energy source can be electronic (as in a battery) or mechanical (as in a wound spring). A watch's main timekeeping mechanism is called its movement. Today's watches fall into two categories: Mechanical movements and Quartz movements. Here's a breakdown of how each type of movement works:
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Mechanical (Automatic) Watches
Mechanical watches are made up of about 130 parts that work together to tell time. Automatic mechanical movements mark the passage of time by a series of gear mechanisms, and are wound by the movement of your wrist as you wear it. The gear train then transmits the power to the escapement, which distributes the impulses, turning the balance wheel. The balance wheel is the time regulating organ of a mechanical watch, which vibrates on a spiral hairspring. Lengthening or shortening the balance spring makes the balance wheel go faster or slower to advance or retard the watch. The travel of the balance wheel from one extreme to the other and back again is called oscillation. A series of gears, called the motion work, then turns the hands on the watch face, or dial. See illustration below.
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Quartz Crystal Watches
Quartz watches work with a series of electronic components, all fitting together in a tiny space. Rather than a wound spring, a quartz watch relies on a battery for its energy. The battery sends electrical energy to a rotor to produce an electrical current. The current passes through a magnetic coil to a quartz crystal, which vibrates at a very high frequency (32,768 times a second), providing highly accurate timekeeping. These impulses are passed through a stepping motor that turns the electrical energy into the mechanical energy needed to turn the gear train. The gear train turns the motion work, which actually moves the hands on the watch dial.
Automatic Watch Maintenance
Although automatic mechanical watches do not have batteries, some easy-to-follow maintenance is necessary for continued and long-lasting good use.
Self-winding automatic watches depend on the movement of the arm to operate and do require some winding, even if you wear your watch on a daily basis.
If you wear your Automatic watch everyday, it is best to wind it once, every two weeks to keep the wheels in motion and oil fluid. Simply wind the crown (the same knob used to adjust the time and date) until you meet slight resistance.
If you do not wear your Automatic watch everyday, you should try to wind it at least twice a week to ensure continuous operation, as well as keeping the inside mechanism in complete running order.
Try to wind your mechanical watch at the same time every day. This is extremely beneficial for the mechanism. You may want to make it a routine, winding it every morning when you wake up.
Avoid setting the day and/or date (if your watch has these functions) at night. The day-date mechanism is activated during the nighttime hours and could be disrupted if set at this time.
And, always avoid wearing your mechanical watch, if you are playing a sport requiring continuous arm motion (e.g. tennis, baseball, golf), since continuous arm motion could damage the movemen
Find the Perfect Watch
Our fast "Find Watches" search engine will take you right to the watches you're interested in. You can narrow your search by brand, gender, series name.
To use the search engine, go to Find Watches and choose and/or enter the information listed below. When you are finished, click on the Find Watches icon and your search results will be displayed in front of you.
Brand Search
Search for one or more of the fine brands offered bywww.watch2000.net.
Gender Search
To search for both Men's£¬Lady's watches and lovers' watches, make no selection. Click the menu box arrow to select Men's or Lady's watches.
Sizing Your Watch
Fitting Your Wrist - Removing Links
If you have ordered a watch with a metal bracelet, there is a good chance you will have to have one or more links removed to fit your wrist properly. This can only be done with the wearer present. That is why we ship all watches unsized.
Hold on to Them
After the links are removed, keep those links! Occasionally, a watch bracelet may break. It is a lot easier (and cheaper!) to have the bracelet repaired with your own links than ordering and shipping new ones.
(Please remember that once you have your watch sized, you may NOT return it for a cash refund or exchange)
Care & Cleaning
watch2000.net has put together a few simple guidelines to help you care for your watch. Following these simple steps will help you ensure it's long life.
- Water-Resistant Versus Waterproof
- Keeping Your Watch Dry
- Caring for the Crystal
- Metal Versus Leather Straps
- Battery Replacement
- Cleaning Your Watch
- Servicing Your Watch
- Automatic Watch Maintenance
Water-Resistant Versus Waterproof
A watch marked as water resistant without a depth indication is designed to withstand accidental splashes of water only.Do not submerge such a watch. Higher levels of water resistance are indicated by increasingly higher acceptable depths, usually indicated in meters.
There are a variety of ways to make a watch water resistant. All such watches use rubber gaskets or "O" rings to seal the case back. A watch with a back that screws onto the case provides a higher degree of water resistance. Some crowns (the "winding stem") actually screw into the case to further increase water resistance.
Usage Recommendations
The following usage recommendations are suggested by the Seiko Corporation of America.
- Water-resistant to 30 meters (100 feet). Will withstand splashes of water or rain but should not be worn while swimming or diving.
- Water-tested to 50 meters (165 feet). Suitable for showering or swimming in shallow water.
- Water-tested to 100 meters (330 feet). Suitable for swimming and snorkeling.
- Water-tested to 150 meters (500 feet). Suitable for snorkeling.
- Water-tested to 200 meters (660 feet). Suitable for skin diving.
- Diver's 150 meters (500 feet). Meets ISO standards and is suitable for scuba diving.
- Diver's 200 meters (660 feet). Meets ISO standards and is suitable for scuba diving.
Keeping Your Watch Dry
Always make sure your watch is dry after it has been exposed to water. By taking a few minutes and thoroughly drying your watch with a lint-free cloth, you will prevent rust from forming. This is a key point in ensuring the long life of your watch.Caring for the Crystal
The crystal is the transparent part of the watch through which you tell time. As we discussed with water, a watch may have a scratch-resistant crystal, however no crystal is truly scratchproof. Therefore, it is not advisable that you toss your watch onto the dresser or into a drawer at the end of the day. It's better for the watch to store or wrap it in a soft cloth before placing it down. The more care you take with the watch, the less scratches you will end up with. Replace broken or scratched crystals immediately. Even a hairline crack can let dust or moisture into the mechanism, threatening its accuracy. If you place the watch in a drawer with other jewelry, this too may scratch the watch, as it might rub against the other pieces. Another suggestion would be to store the watch in its original case, since these cases are generally soft and made specifically for the watch.Metal Versus Leather Bands
If you participate in activities that cause excessive sweat or perspiration, you may want to consider getting a watch with a metal bracelet or rubber strap, instead of a leather strap. Watches that have natural and genuine leather straps will gradually deteriorate with constant exposure to perspiration. Metal bracelets would best be classified as "dress" watches.Battery Replacement
Watches that run on batteries are known as 'Quartz' watches. The batteries will last anywhere from one to several years. Watches that do not need battery replacement include automatic (self-winding) watches and solar-powered watches (which have a rechargeable battery). You may want to consult the watch's manual if you're not sure what type of watch you have.Cleaning Your Watch
The best way to clean your watch is by using a lint-free cloth and a toothpick. Use the toothpick to clean out any dirt buildup in the bracelet or casing of the watch and the cloth to wipe it clean. If it is water-resistant, give it an occasional cleaning with a mixture of warm water and a mild soap. If the strap is leather or non-metal, clean only the case.Servicing Your Watch
Like any other piece of machinery, a watch must be cleaned, oiled, and serviced. Every couple of years, you may notice the watch losing time or running fast-or it may stop working altogether. Just take your watch to a local watch professional for servicing.Automatic Watch Maintenance
Although automatic mechanical watches do not have batteries, some easy-to-follow maintenance is necessary for continued and long-lasting good use.
Self-winding automatic watches depend on the movement of the arm to operate and do require some winding, even if you wear your watch on a daily basis.
If you wear your Automatic watch everyday, it is best to wind it once, every two weeks to keep the wheels in motion and oil fluid. Simply wind the crown (the same knob used to adjust the time and date) until you meet slight resistance.
If you do not wear your Automatic watch everyday, you should try to wind it at least twice a week to ensure continuous operation, as well as keeping the inside mechanism in complete running order.
Try to wind your mechanical watch at the same time every day. This is extremely beneficial for the mechanism. You may want to make it a routine, winding it every morning when you wake up.
Avoid setting the day and/or date (if your watch has these functions) at night. The day-date mechanism is activated during the nighttime hours and could be disrupted if set at this time.
And, always avoid wearing your mechanical watch, if you are playing a sport requiring continuous arm motion (e.g. tennis, baseball, golf), since continuous arm motion could damage the movement.
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Water Resistance and Watches
Your new watch says it is water resistant, but what exactly does that mean? And how do you care for a water resistant watch?
Definition of Water Resistance
A watch marked as water resistant without a depth indication is designed to withstand accidental splashes of water only. Do not submerge such a watch. Higher levels of water resistance are indicated by increasingly higher acceptable depths, usually indicated in meters.
There are a variety of ways to make a watch water resistant. All such watches use rubber gaskets or "O" rings to seal the case back. A watch with a back that screws onto the case provides a higher degree of water resistance. Some crowns (the "winding stem") actually screw into the case to further increase water resistance.
Usage Recommendations
The following usage recommendations are suggested by the Seiko Corporation of America.
- Water-resistant to 30 meters (100 feet). Will withstand splashes of water or rain but should not be worn while swimming or diving.
- Water-tested to 50 meters (165 feet). Suitable for showering or swimming in shallow water.
- Water-tested to 100 meters (330 feet). Suitable for swimming and snorkeling.
- Water-tested to 150 meters (500 feet). Suitable for snorkeling.
- Water-tested to 200 meters (660 feet). Suitable for skin diving.
- Diver's 150 meters (500 feet). Meets ISO standards and is suitable for scuba diving.
- Diver's 200 meters (660 feet). Meets ISO standards and is suitable for scuba diving.
Please note that we do not recommend swimming or diving with your watch unless it has a screw-down crown (also known as ¡®screw-lock¡¯ or ¡®screw-in¡¯ crown) and is water-resistant to
at least 100 meters.
Care for a Water Resistant Watch
It is not recommended to wear your water resistant watch in a hot shower, sauna or hot tub. The extreme heat causes the metal parts to expand at a different rate than the rubber gaskets. This creates small openings that can allow water droplets to penetrate the watch. Sudden temperature changes are especially harsh. Take care not to jump into a cold pool after wearing your watch in the hot tub.
After swimming or diving in salt water, immediately rinse the watch in a stream of fresh water. If your watch has a rotating bezel, turn the bezel several times while rinsing it. This will prevent salt buildup and corrosion of the bezel ring.
Leather straps can be made to be water resistant too. Generally however, leather straps are more easily damaged by frequent exposure to water. So if you are going to wear your watch while swimming -- think of buying one with a metal bracelet or a rubber or nylon diver strap.